Ravages of Time

Chinaman’s Bluff is a massive bush covered rock rising 530 meters above the Dart river valley about a 1,5 hour drive and 2 hour walk from Queenstown. This bluff has resisted the Dart glacier in ancient times forcing ice to flow over and around it leaving ice-scoured walls over 300 meters high to the north.

I met up with Winnie at her place in Queenstown the previous evening half past 9. She’s from the States and on working holiday here in Queenstown. I Felt like home staying and chatting with another climber. She was kind to let me crash on her sofa. We knew that it was crucial to start really early in the morning and went to bed.

The beginning of a long day

Waking up at 5.15 after five hours of restless sleep wasn’t feeling as bad as it could have. I had dreamed about climbing this route for almost half a year. I was really excited and felt a little unreal to finally be leaving for Chinaman’s Bluff. We packed our gear and drove with the sun coating the surrounding mountains with golden topping. Mist was rising from the Dart River and the air was fresh and smelled of adventure. Driving past the sign of “Paradise” made me feel even more exhilarated about the long awaited mission.

Me and Winnie 6.30 am

After a few unexpected but surprisingly easy stream crossings we had arrived at the parking area. We geared up and headed for the 1 hour approach. A long scramble through the bushes made that approach 2 hours and left us starting the climb 10.30 in the morning. Being so excited had us high fiving at the base even before any climbing was done.

One of the streams we had to drive across

The approach 

The route consists of 9 pitches in total of which we skipped the first one as instructed by the guidebook. Winnie cruised through the grade 17 (5c), bolted 2^nd pitch with ease and I followed to the anchor. Trees were growing from the wall and it felt more like an upward winding road through a funky forest.

The first pitch of Ravages

Slaps on the face

The next pitch was a grade 18 (6a) trad lead and I was really happy to get climbing. Enjoyed a good crack slightly traversing to the right on to the only bolt of the route. Up a vertical corner and straight into trouble I climbed. Going left instead of right at a slight roof I realized I had gone four meters the wrong way! Down climbing and removing trad gear at the crux made me worry. I suddenly started feeling unsure about the later grade 20 pitches that were also traditionally protected. After being terrified of sketchy gear placements too far apart I managed to climb up to the anchor bolts. I belayed Winnie up to the small ledge. We had a chat about our goals. Had we taken up a challenge too great? We could always bail from any anchor, but in my heart I felt a weight growing. The next pitch was pure grade 18 (6a) trad which Winnie wasn’t so eager to lead. I had to stop making mistakes and start crushing this stuff if we were to have any chance on the grade 20’s (6b). I geared up and started climbing.

The winds change

With each move and to my own surprise the climbing started feeling easier and I felt my confidence growing. I enjoyed every part of the pitch and really started to get a feel for the rock. I climbed effortlessly to a comfy ledge. I belayed Winnie enjoying the sunshine and feeling hope of finishing return to my thoughts.

The name of the route is very appropriate. Feeling to have returned in time to an ancient vertical palace with small trees greening the ledges. The grey schist with its grooves and edges remind me of the glacier ice ravaging on the rock. Despite its chipping nature I was starting to find it quite pleasant to climb. Slab climbing mostly with good crimpers and hand cracks with slightly slope foot placements. No chalk marks to tell you where to go make the climbing really interesting. Focus is key to avoid climbing the wrong way. True on sight climbing!

The joy of climbing

Before pitch 5 we had a little lunch on the ledge with the most amazing views over Dart river valley. I had seen the place in photos so many times and it was an amazing feeling to finally be realizing this dream, but the ancient rock still had some surprises left for us.

Pitch 5 was the first grade 20 but after getting up to the belay it seemed to be only another easy hand crack followed by relentless bolted face climbing. With small crimpers and smearing footholds, this pitch reminded me of Olhava in Finland and especially a route called Lenina-T. With each pitch the rock was revealing its secrets to me and I managed to figure out its predictability.

Winnie on the relenstless 5th pitch

Half way checkpoint after 5th

Bothered by the chipping rock Winnie lead pitch 6 to a wonderfully situated belay station on an arête. Blasting through beautifully exposed grade 16 (5a) mixed pitches 7 and 8 I enjoyed every move. I was surrounded by the best of views and immersed in a personal climbing meditation. It was an awesome search and find journey with interesting and sometimes hard to see little cracks for gear placements.

Me following pitch 6

Belay arete for 7th pitch

Reunited at the end of pitch 8 we had an unenjoyable scramble through bushes and arrived at the base of the final pitch! Feeling excited about having gotten this far we were pretty confident to make it to the top.

Dreams come true

After a small rest I geared up and started on the final vertical grade 20 (6b) trad crack. Placing gear was getting frustrating and a midway crux on a small roof tested my commitment. I kept on pushing through the lactic acid and way above my last piece. A fall here might have taken me to the ground but crushing move after move I pushed on and over the roof. Past a small tree fixing a sling on a root I went on to the last overhanging face of the climb. Just 3 more bolts to go and my arms were past the point of recovery. Time slowed down as I narrowed my focus. I took a deep breath, grasped some chalk for confidence and fought my way up. A final lunge for a tree branch at the top ultimately brought me to the top of the climb!

I was finally here at the top of Ravages!

I saw the Dart river snaking 350 meters below me. Cool wind on my face and a relieved feeling of having made it I yelled for victory! I took a minute to enjoy the feeling before belaying Winnie to the top. After taking a few photos we started planning the descent. It was already 18.50 in the evening and the sun was starting to go down. We knew the climb isn’t finished before we’re on the ground.

At the top of Ravages!

And turn into nightmares

Going down into darkness at pitch 7 belay station

Abseiling down the first pitches was no problemo. Hated the scramble from the last belay station and had to do a sloppy traverse to the next anchor. I felt my concentration faltering and had to remind myself of the climb not being done before we were back on the ground. Most accidents happen on the way down and I was starting to feel the reason. The guidebook suggested taking a different route to abseil down. This seemed faster and I was eager to get back down. From the middle checkpoint at the top of pitch five I rappelled down looking for the next anchor. Down and down I went expecting to see the bolts any moment. Down and down straight to the end of the rope. Stopped by the knots at the end of the rope I was dangling 150 meters above the river bed! Scary feeling I must say! “This is gonna take some time Winnie!”

After a horrible rope ascent using a prusik as safety I got myself to a little shelf with a tree. Checking a picture of the topo on my phone I figured I had gone to the wrong side of this little shelf. Hidden below the bushes under me had to be the bolts. I rappelled down the other side and saw them! Fighting through bushes with the other hand and rope in the other hand I got to anchor and clipped myself in. The last rays of light waned off as Winnie cursed and fought her way down through the vegetation. Pulling down the rope we realized our mistake. Winnie had told her friend that we should be in Glenorchy at 10 and it was past already.

Darkness set his blanket on us

There we were on a vertical rock face in the black of night cursing our own stupidity. Careful not to drop a single item we searched our backpacks for headlamps. Clipped to the bolts we had to fight and swear to get the rope under our carabiners and get our weight off again to start abseiling. Eventually we spent a good hour and a half in this shitty situation. Finally Winnie went down looking for the next anchor. She had changed the headlamp batteries but realized it had been on in her backpack for the whole day. With the fading headlamp she looked for the anchor only to find out that it wasn’t there! Only a bushy ledge to rest on she yelled me to come down. I descended down to the bushes.

We had to take a break and assess our situation. The information in the guidebook was inconsistent of our findings and we weren’t really sure of our whereabouts. After a good time of messing around with flashlights (I borrowed Winnie a spare) and fighting with the rope we had to start making decisions. We thought about scrambling down but found another rock face below. Against the advice of the guidebook we decided to wrap the rope around a tree. Winnie abseiled down and found that the base of the climb was only another 20 meters below us! We just couldn’t see it in the darkness! Sacrificing a carabiner and a sling I abseiled down to the ground. We were so relieved to be at base, but knew that we still had to walk down through the forest and to the car. We packed our stuff and started walking to the car park in total silence. After 1,5 hours of bush whacking and trekking we eventually got to the car.

Epilogue

During our walk with my friends Winnie and Darkness I was thinking back on our journey. It’s hard to find words to describe the feeling. An hour after sunset 150 meters above the ground isn’t where you want to be. Previously I hadn’t done any long multi pitch routes and it sure as hell was a massive challenge to tackle Ravages in one day starting and finishing in Queenstown.

By this time Winnie’s friend had called the police and posted worried Facebook queries. Winnie called back to the police telling we were safe and got a half hour talk about safety as a reply. Feeling sleep crawling into my brain I fought to stay awake for the drive back. At 2 am we finally arrived in Queenstown and went straight to bed.

Lessons learned

Never abseil down a route if you’re not sure where you’re going!

Having recovered from the nightly horrors I think I we were lucky. Life had taught us yet another lesson. The price paid was only a sling and a carabiner. It sure didn’t go as planned but any journey is an adventure as long as your life isn’t threatened. With consideration and care in a difficult situation we still on the safe side of this line.

Thanks to my partner and friend Winnie for making a dream come true!