Ravages of Time

Chinaman’s Bluff is a massive bush covered rock rising 530 meters above the Dart river valley about a 1,5 hour drive and 2 hour walk from Queenstown. This bluff has resisted the Dart glacier in ancient times forcing ice to flow over and around it leaving ice-scoured walls over 300 meters high to the north.

I met up with Winnie at her place in Queenstown the previous evening half past 9. She’s from the States and on working holiday here in Queenstown. I Felt like home staying and chatting with another climber. She was kind to let me crash on her sofa. We knew that it was crucial to start really early in the morning and went to bed.

The beginning of a long day

Waking up at 5.15 after five hours of restless sleep wasn’t feeling as bad as it could have. I had dreamed about climbing this route for almost half a year. I was really excited and felt a little unreal to finally be leaving for Chinaman’s Bluff. We packed our gear and drove with the sun coating the surrounding mountains with golden topping. Mist was rising from the Dart River and the air was fresh and smelled of adventure. Driving past the sign of “Paradise” made me feel even more exhilarated about the long awaited mission.

Me and Winnie 6.30 am

After a few unexpected but surprisingly easy stream crossings we had arrived at the parking area. We geared up and headed for the 1 hour approach. A long scramble through the bushes made that approach 2 hours and left us starting the climb 10.30 in the morning. Being so excited had us high fiving at the base even before any climbing was done.

One of the streams we had to drive across

The approach 

The route consists of 9 pitches in total of which we skipped the first one as instructed by the guidebook. Winnie cruised through the grade 17 (5c), bolted 2^nd pitch with ease and I followed to the anchor. Trees were growing from the wall and it felt more like an upward winding road through a funky forest.

The first pitch of Ravages

Slaps on the face

The next pitch was a grade 18 (6a) trad lead and I was really happy to get climbing. Enjoyed a good crack slightly traversing to the right on to the only bolt of the route. Up a vertical corner and straight into trouble I climbed. Going left instead of right at a slight roof I realized I had gone four meters the wrong way! Down climbing and removing trad gear at the crux made me worry. I suddenly started feeling unsure about the later grade 20 pitches that were also traditionally protected. After being terrified of sketchy gear placements too far apart I managed to climb up to the anchor bolts. I belayed Winnie up to the small ledge. We had a chat about our goals. Had we taken up a challenge too great? We could always bail from any anchor, but in my heart I felt a weight growing. The next pitch was pure grade 18 (6a) trad which Winnie wasn’t so eager to lead. I had to stop making mistakes and start crushing this stuff if we were to have any chance on the grade 20’s (6b). I geared up and started climbing.

The winds change

With each move and to my own surprise the climbing started feeling easier and I felt my confidence growing. I enjoyed every part of the pitch and really started to get a feel for the rock. I climbed effortlessly to a comfy ledge. I belayed Winnie enjoying the sunshine and feeling hope of finishing return to my thoughts.

The name of the route is very appropriate. Feeling to have returned in time to an ancient vertical palace with small trees greening the ledges. The grey schist with its grooves and edges remind me of the glacier ice ravaging on the rock. Despite its chipping nature I was starting to find it quite pleasant to climb. Slab climbing mostly with good crimpers and hand cracks with slightly slope foot placements. No chalk marks to tell you where to go make the climbing really interesting. Focus is key to avoid climbing the wrong way. True on sight climbing!

The joy of climbing

Before pitch 5 we had a little lunch on the ledge with the most amazing views over Dart river valley. I had seen the place in photos so many times and it was an amazing feeling to finally be realizing this dream, but the ancient rock still had some surprises left for us.

Pitch 5 was the first grade 20 but after getting up to the belay it seemed to be only another easy hand crack followed by relentless bolted face climbing. With small crimpers and smearing footholds, this pitch reminded me of Olhava in Finland and especially a route called Lenina-T. With each pitch the rock was revealing its secrets to me and I managed to figure out its predictability.

Winnie on the relenstless 5th pitch

Half way checkpoint after 5th

Bothered by the chipping rock Winnie lead pitch 6 to a wonderfully situated belay station on an arête. Blasting through beautifully exposed grade 16 (5a) mixed pitches 7 and 8 I enjoyed every move. I was surrounded by the best of views and immersed in a personal climbing meditation. It was an awesome search and find journey with interesting and sometimes hard to see little cracks for gear placements.

Me following pitch 6

Belay arete for 7th pitch

Reunited at the end of pitch 8 we had an unenjoyable scramble through bushes and arrived at the base of the final pitch! Feeling excited about having gotten this far we were pretty confident to make it to the top.

Dreams come true

After a small rest I geared up and started on the final vertical grade 20 (6b) trad crack. Placing gear was getting frustrating and a midway crux on a small roof tested my commitment. I kept on pushing through the lactic acid and way above my last piece. A fall here might have taken me to the ground but crushing move after move I pushed on and over the roof. Past a small tree fixing a sling on a root I went on to the last overhanging face of the climb. Just 3 more bolts to go and my arms were past the point of recovery. Time slowed down as I narrowed my focus. I took a deep breath, grasped some chalk for confidence and fought my way up. A final lunge for a tree branch at the top ultimately brought me to the top of the climb!

I was finally here at the top of Ravages!

I saw the Dart river snaking 350 meters below me. Cool wind on my face and a relieved feeling of having made it I yelled for victory! I took a minute to enjoy the feeling before belaying Winnie to the top. After taking a few photos we started planning the descent. It was already 18.50 in the evening and the sun was starting to go down. We knew the climb isn’t finished before we’re on the ground.

At the top of Ravages!

And turn into nightmares

Going down into darkness at pitch 7 belay station

Abseiling down the first pitches was no problemo. Hated the scramble from the last belay station and had to do a sloppy traverse to the next anchor. I felt my concentration faltering and had to remind myself of the climb not being done before we were back on the ground. Most accidents happen on the way down and I was starting to feel the reason. The guidebook suggested taking a different route to abseil down. This seemed faster and I was eager to get back down. From the middle checkpoint at the top of pitch five I rappelled down looking for the next anchor. Down and down I went expecting to see the bolts any moment. Down and down straight to the end of the rope. Stopped by the knots at the end of the rope I was dangling 150 meters above the river bed! Scary feeling I must say! “This is gonna take some time Winnie!”

After a horrible rope ascent using a prusik as safety I got myself to a little shelf with a tree. Checking a picture of the topo on my phone I figured I had gone to the wrong side of this little shelf. Hidden below the bushes under me had to be the bolts. I rappelled down the other side and saw them! Fighting through bushes with the other hand and rope in the other hand I got to anchor and clipped myself in. The last rays of light waned off as Winnie cursed and fought her way down through the vegetation. Pulling down the rope we realized our mistake. Winnie had told her friend that we should be in Glenorchy at 10 and it was past already.

Darkness set his blanket on us

There we were on a vertical rock face in the black of night cursing our own stupidity. Careful not to drop a single item we searched our backpacks for headlamps. Clipped to the bolts we had to fight and swear to get the rope under our carabiners and get our weight off again to start abseiling. Eventually we spent a good hour and a half in this shitty situation. Finally Winnie went down looking for the next anchor. She had changed the headlamp batteries but realized it had been on in her backpack for the whole day. With the fading headlamp she looked for the anchor only to find out that it wasn’t there! Only a bushy ledge to rest on she yelled me to come down. I descended down to the bushes.

We had to take a break and assess our situation. The information in the guidebook was inconsistent of our findings and we weren’t really sure of our whereabouts. After a good time of messing around with flashlights (I borrowed Winnie a spare) and fighting with the rope we had to start making decisions. We thought about scrambling down but found another rock face below. Against the advice of the guidebook we decided to wrap the rope around a tree. Winnie abseiled down and found that the base of the climb was only another 20 meters below us! We just couldn’t see it in the darkness! Sacrificing a carabiner and a sling I abseiled down to the ground. We were so relieved to be at base, but knew that we still had to walk down through the forest and to the car. We packed our stuff and started walking to the car park in total silence. After 1,5 hours of bush whacking and trekking we eventually got to the car.

Epilogue

During our walk with my friends Winnie and Darkness I was thinking back on our journey. It’s hard to find words to describe the feeling. An hour after sunset 150 meters above the ground isn’t where you want to be. Previously I hadn’t done any long multi pitch routes and it sure as hell was a massive challenge to tackle Ravages in one day starting and finishing in Queenstown.

By this time Winnie’s friend had called the police and posted worried Facebook queries. Winnie called back to the police telling we were safe and got a half hour talk about safety as a reply. Feeling sleep crawling into my brain I fought to stay awake for the drive back. At 2 am we finally arrived in Queenstown and went straight to bed.

Lessons learned

Never abseil down a route if you’re not sure where you’re going!

Having recovered from the nightly horrors I think I we were lucky. Life had taught us yet another lesson. The price paid was only a sling and a carabiner. It sure didn’t go as planned but any journey is an adventure as long as your life isn’t threatened. With consideration and care in a difficult situation we still on the safe side of this line.

Thanks to my partner and friend Winnie for making a dream come true!

Coastal Soaring

....

The pressure receptors of my soles were telling me of an absent ground contact. I was suddenly dangling 40 meters above the black sands of Kariotahi beach. The upward current of the wind gave me gentle jerk upward and I saw the edge below me departing.  UV-rays blasting on my face and the wind flapping my shirt I was brought back to reality by the radio on my neck. “Shhhh… Okay Johannes! Great launch! Now just lean a bit to your left and break with your left hand” I reorganized my thoughts on my motor cortex and started steering to the left. The paraglider is controlled by look, lean and break sequence. It really felt like gliding through the air as I was slowly leaning back toward the cliff under me. The calm feeling of flight was spiced merely by the slight whistle of the lines above me. I banked right as instructed through the radio. The plan for first flight was to fly straight for the beach and land against the wind. After a time too short and without even really realizing to enjoy the experience the ground was coming at me again. “Coming in for the landing Johannes, just turn a bit more right and break gradually on both sides”

Feeling a gentle thud I brought the flight to a perfect landing. I swung around and pulled hard on the brakes to land my glider. I’m not much of the “hands in the air and scream” - type of person, but almost did that. An involuntary grind spread across my face and I savoured the moment for a minute. That was f****** cool man!! I packed my glider and started climbing up for another go!

The next flights were longer, up to 10 minutes each as I gradually started to get the feel of flying. Soaring back and forth along the cliff line I felt exhilarated by the sense of control on the glider. I could have stayed up in the air for hours just surfing the gentle currents of the Indian Ocean breeze! Unfortunately all flights must come to an end. It was an awesome day and I even got good feedback from Eva and Lucas. “That’s some great coastal soaring Johannes! You make it look like you’ve done it for bloody ages!” Epic. 

Things getting serious

Black Thursday

The passing storm was blasting showers of rain on the windows. All week I had only waited for the weather to clear. I was anxious to continue with my flying lessons. All the climbing, yoga and chilling amidst the skyscrapers in glorious Auckland just weren't doing it for me. Then I got an email from Kevin. We were supposed to meet up next week to climb the glorious Ravages of time. He said he could not make it. I sank into a gloomy dark place inside my mind. It seemed that my objectives of the adventure were chopped to tinder. First the paragliding and now climbing too. Had a few beers and contemplated on the meaning of life for a moment. We are so dependent on other people whatever we do. It is the joy and curse of life. I was feeling abandoned. After four beers I went to sleep thinking about doing the ravages solo...

Chinaman's Bluff in the mist (photo from google)

Hope

After a big jug of friday morning latte, I decided to give the light another chance. I posted an enquiry on the Queensland climbing group on facebook, pleading for help in tackling the 350m climb at Chinamans Bluff. I had planned to fly to Christchurch on monday and take an eight hour bus ride to Queenstown on tuesday. Then an angel of the climbing gods sent me a message from heaven. She was called Winnie and told me to pick up my trad gear and join with her for the quest! The only thing I needed to do was be in Queensland on monday morning!

Without any sort of hesitation I took her helping hand, cancelled my flight, bus and accommodation in Christchurch and booked another flight straight to QT on Sunday morning. Cost be just about 100 euros, but it's just money eh? She seemed to be very competent too and we agreed to meet on Sunday evening to plan our mission. Maybe there is still hope!

The weather seemed to be clearing too and the paragliding school called me that Saturday is good for flying. I had fun day climbing with last years womens lead champion Sarah and went to bed feeling the excitement and energy returning to my body.

The art of Flight

Kariotahi beach was teeming with gliders when we drove throught the hills to see the endless ocean. I still  felt a bit bad for missing the ferry from Auckland to Bayswater and having to ask the school staff to pick me up from the city. All this was soon a distant memory when I got to fly for the first time.

After an hour of ground handling and take off practice, Lucas was ready to send me off the edge. The training grounds at Kariotahi end in a steep sandy cliff 30 meters down to the black beach. The sand there is full of iron. I had seen the other pilots soar up into the air with the wind that was directed by the cliff. Now I had to give up self preservation and trust my mentor. He was convinced that I was ready for my first flight. Carefully laying down my glider and checking the lines for tangles I got ready to take on the challenge. Guided by my instructor I launched the glider into the air and felt it pulling back and catching wind. Up and over my head I steered the enormous kite in the blazing sunlight and cool ocean wind.  After one missed heart beat I pushed myself straight over the edge...

Other plans

Today was the first day of rain during my stay in Auckland. There was supposed to be an acro yoga jam at Greylynn park, but they had to cancel it due to bad weather. Now I'm stranded at my crib trying to pass the time watching netflix and reading books.

Yesterday I took an hour of riding buses and trains to get to the biggest indoor climbing gym in New Zealand, Extreme Edge Panmure. Man I just love climbing gyms! Once you get into doing something that's a very important part of your life, you instantly feel energized and confident. Did some cool top roping with beginners just building my endurance and gave some tips to a local guy which led to him climbing his first local grade 20 route. Felt good about helping someone. Even got to do some acro yoga with a couple that had just started with it!

A tough looking guy listening to music with his red earphones was doing some casual technique training on the lead climbing wall. He had black hair till his wide shoulders and a rather dark skin tone. Went to have a chat with the hero.

Me: "Hey man, you busy training or you wanna do some lead climbing with me?"

Reggie: "Yeä dude, this stäff's gettin' borin' anyway, so mäightaswell do it... (mumbling something about training)"

Me: " Cool man, what's your name?"

Reggie: "I'm Reggie." (Grasps my hand in his huge palm)

Me: "So you've been climbing a long time?"

Reggie: "Yeä, like twenny years dude, and you?"

I tell him about my climbing experience and we chat about climbing for a while. Half of the stuff porridges down to inaudible newzealandish, but I get the part that he's a real tough guy and done a lot of hard core New Zealand rock climbing. I kinda admire the man for his individualistic chilled style and cool cllimbing. We climb together for a couple of hours. He's laughing at my feather like weight and me getting pumped on steep climbs with big jugs. At the end he casually onsights a route on the biggest roof I've seen. Cool guy. Got to admire that skill. I thank him for his company and run to catch the last train to Britomart.

Tomorrow's weather isn't looking any better for paragliding. Think I'll head to Panmure again...

The roof

Auckland bullets

The wind is blowing too strong and from the wrong direction for paragliding. I'm forced to make other plans for the next few days in Auckland. My paragliding teacher Lucas is going kite surfing and offered to take me out as well. Just missed today's ferry though.

- Went to see Mt Eden Quarry - climbing crag yesterday and  met some local climbers. They were using a figure eight for belaying! They were nice enough to give me a belay on a trad route. I insisted on using my atc.

- Checked out the local climbing gym (Extreme edge). There's walls for kids with automatic belaying devices and different theme climbs like a skeleton of a dinosaur. Did a few climbs with the girl working there. She climbed a 35 degree overhang in sandals. Nice!

- Cafe Wifis are shit

- Learned some Argentine tango  from a Russian woman during the Latin fiesta that's on this weekend.

- Travelling alone is sometimes stressful when you have to abandon your plans. You're kinda left hanging in the air feeling lonely. Having to worry about making the most of it and scared for thinking that you'll bother other people too much. For making new plans you have to be extra social and take the initiative.

- Hoping to get kite surfing tomorrow

Video of my first paragliding lessons

Haha! It's funny looking at yourself when you know you are such an amateur :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95Df0yxIGbw

No blacksmith is born a blacksmith (a finnish proverb)

Sooo... Thought I'd write in English for a change.

Sooo... First time paragliding in Kariotahi beach today... Goddam that shit is hard to handle. :D It's like trying to learn to ride a bike. Seems impossible before you get it. At least that's what I think will happen. If I get it.

Lucas from Wings and Waves paragliding school picked me up from my crib in Kingstown. Instantly liked the guy. We were talking about kitesurfing and other cool sports on the way to the beach. He's almost like a pro kitesurfer. Got sponsors and all. I asked if he's got family and he's like "Hell no. I'm 19 years old!" These New Zealanders kinda seem older than they are..

On the way to the beach. Still smiling!

The excitement was building up when I saw the ocean, driving from the middle of the yellow - brown hills. Waves crashing on the black sandy beach and sun blazing. The wind blowing a fresh 12m/s helped a bit with the heat. Remembered to wear some sunscreen too! It was cool cruising with the 4x4 on the beach to our paragliding spot. The other student had cancelled so I was gonna get private lessons from the pro. We grabbed some big glider bags from the car and walked up the hill.

I was kinda expecting some theory first but Lucas just laid the glider down on the grass and went over checking the lines and glider control in 2 minutes. Then he clipped me into the glider. I was a little scared of the huge thing behind me. It's well above 20 sq meters and knowing from kitesurfing, thats really big in a wind like this. Lucas had no worries and just calmly told me to run forward holding the lines. I started pulling the glider up but It was pulling back like hell! I couldn't even get it over my head! All the excitement was gone and I had to summon all my concentration trying to listen to Lucas' advice. The second time I learned to use my body as a counter weight for the pulling glider. I felt it rise a lot easier form the ground and over me. I ran down the hill hoping for flight but It just didn't happen. The third time I finally got into the air and even managed to stay there for some seconds. After this I kinda lost all the feeling of control for many rounds down the hill and back up again. It felt like too many things are changing the flight of the wing above me and I could only control one at a time. Breaking too hard and the glider was stalling behind me, running too slow and not getting into the air, breaking too little and the glider would fly over me and come flapping down. It's a sport where control is everything and I was still missing the balance.. But I didn't give up. Up the hill I walked again and again. In the end I kinda got the hang of just keeping the glider above me. In the end Lucas did some cool flying and I envied him for his skills. Despite the difficulties, it was actually nice to learn something new for a change! And I am sure I will learn!

Kariotahi beach

We drove the way back to Auckland and had a beer at the paragliding school. I took a ferry to the city center and still got to enjoy the unexpected events of a big city. A latin fiesta and samba music show on the wharf, a hare krishna parade and free samba lessons on Aotea square! The city centre was awesomely clean and well organized. So civilized! Ah! The contrast after Nepal and the Philippines made me happy again.

Little people enjoyng the samba

So... I feel tired. It's been a long day. Wouldn't change a thing!

A video of my first flights coming up! Tomorrow hoping to go to Mt Eden quarry for climbing!

Pikapäivitys

Eva saattoi minut aamulla uudelle kämpälleni Aucklandiin. Aamuruuhkassa matelimme puoli tuntia ekstraa ja pari kertaa ajoimme risteyksestä ohi. Lopulta oikea talo kuitenkin löytyi ja avain rapun vasemmalta puolelta niinkuin oli sovittu. Airbnb toimii jälleen. Huoneeni ei ole hääppöinen mutta keittiö on iso ja on myös vessa ja puhtaat lakanat.

Saan romuni huoneeseen ja koodailen varjoliitosuunnitelmista. Wings and waves koulun kaveri tulee kymmenen minuutin päästä minua hakemaan ja suuntaamme ilmeisesti Kariotahi beachille opettelemaan avustetun lentämisen saloja. Jännityksen vuoksi voin hieman pahoin. :D

This is where the adventure starts!

Stay tuned!

Uuden majapaikkani keittiö ja olohuone

Aivan kuin kotona. Kamat levällään heti.

Aamunautintoja Helensvillessä

Lento laskeutui Aucklandin kentälle hieman yli kuusi illalla paikallista. 11 tunnin aikaero ei näin pitkän matkan jälkeen tunnu kummalliselta, kun yö ja päivä on muutenkin mennyt jo sekaisin. Kentällä joudun telttani vuoksi bioturvallisuustutkintaan ja teltan desinfioinnin vuoksi seisoskeluun menee vielä 1,5 tuntia ennen kuin pääsen ulos. Eva tätini on minua vastassa. Edellisestä tapaamisesta 15 vuoden jälkeen joudun kuluttamaan pari ylimääräistä tuijotussekuntia tunnistaakseni hänet. Odottelemme yhdessä teltan desinfiointia kuulumisia vaihtaen. Automatka Evan ja Timin kanssa Helensvillen kylään sujuu mukavasti sukulaisten elämäntilanteita kertoillessa. Aurinko on jo laskenut ja värjännyt taivaanrannan kauniin oranssiksi. Syömme yhdessä illallista ja tyhjennämme Evan kanssa punaviinipullon. Unilääkkeeksi tietenkin vain.

Vaikka nukkuminen oikeassa sängyssä pitkän matkan jälkeen on mukavaa, herään kuitenkin jo seitsemän aikaan. Uni ei enää tule ja päätän lähteä aamulenkille. Juoksen koulupukuisia lapsia ohitellen tietä pitkin ja nautin vapaudentunteesta. Viereiset kukkulat houkuttelevat minut pois tieltä ja nousen laiduntavien lampaiden ihmettelevien katseiden ohi tähyilemään maisemia. Tutkin katseellani suuria havupuita ja ruskean keltaisia rinteitä jotka kumpuilevan mukavan pehmeästi taivaanrantaan. Kukkulan harjannetta juostessani hymyilen itsekseni ja mietin viime syksyn pitkiä työpäiviä Seinäjoen terveyskeskuksessa. Kyllä kannatti! Olen aina ollut sitä mieltä, että elämässä pitää olla kontrastia. Vapauden ja lomafiiliksen tuoma nautinto maksimoituu juostessani ilman polkuja tai teitä pitkän matkaa harjannetta pitkin. Ilma on mukavan lämmin olematta kuitenkaan trooppisen tukahduttava. Sirkat sirittävät puissa innoissaan ja mietin tulevia seikkailuja. Tästä seesteisyydestä on mukava aloittaa matka tähän uudenlaiseen ihmemaahan joka vaikuttaa niin mahtavan erilaiselta kuin muut näkemäni.

Orphan in Transit

Saapuessani Pekingin lentokentälle hieman vajaa puolenpäivän tajuan seuraavan lentoni boarding ajan olevan klo 23.55. Vaihtoehtoja punniten päätän seikkailla ulos kentältä ja ottaa bussin Pekingin mystiseen ytimeen. En tapaa ketään joka puhuisi englantia. Olo on kuin haamulla elokuvassa Enter the void, jonka katsomisen jälkeen Tampereella jouduimme ystäväni Niilo Soinnun kanssa upottamaan hämmentyneet päämme keskustorin suihkulähteeseen järjen palauttamiseksi. Ilman suurempia kunnianhimoja, haaveilen vain banaalin nälän tyydyttämisestä. Bussissa kyselen oikeaa pysäkkiä osoittaen kiinalaisia koukeroita, jotka infotiskin tyttö piirsi bussilippuuni. 

Pääsen hyppäämään pois kyydistä hieman aiottua myöhemmin ja lähden seikkailemaan pilvenpiirtäjien tornittamalla kadulla. Mantelitumakkeeni kellon mukaan on aikainen aamu ja siltä näyttääkin vaikka kello on kolme päivällä. Aurinko on matalalla ja ilma on viileä, noin kymmenen astetta. Monen kaupan ja ravintolan ovi on kuitenkin ketjuilla lukittu ja kadut ovat hämmentävän tyhjiä. 

Haamufiiliksissä seikkailen ostoskeskuksen oloiseen, jossa väkeä on reilusti. Rullaportailen kerros kerrallaan ylös yhdeksänteen. Ravintolat ovat toistaan kummempia ja päädyn takaisin katutasolle buffet tyyppiseen nuudelibaariin. Kummalliset möykyt ja äyriäiset lepäävät salaattipedeillä tarjoilutiskillä. Tarjoilija puhuu kiinaa ja ojentaa käteeni ison muovilautasen ja pidit. Siitä sitten noukin toistaan kummallisempia elementtejä kippooni ja ymmärrän, että näistä jonkinlainen nuudelikeitto sitten keitetään.

 Tiskitäti punnitsee tuotteeni, maksan 29 juania ja menen pöytääni odottamaan. Valokuvauskieltoa ennen räpsin pari fotoa. Tyttö huikkaa tiskiltä osoittaen kysyvästi ruskeaa mössöä sisältävää kulhoa. Mutisen hyväksyvästi ja saan soppani päälle kauhallisen, jonka oletan olevan maapähkinäkastiketta. Nappaan syömäpuikot ja vien kulhoni pöytään. Maapähkinäveikkaus osui oikeaan eikä maku muutenkaan onneksi ole kovin eksoottinen. En tosin tuotteista osaa nimetä kuin kukkakaalin ja parsakaalin. Syön mahani tyytyväisenä täyteen ja iloitsen yksinkertaisesta onnistumisesta.

Kahvilassa soi länkkärijazz ja wifikin löytyy. Google tosin ei ole saatavilla enkä pääse blogianikaan kirjoittamaan. Ilmeisesti Kiinan halluituksella on ollut kiistaa palvelun tuottajien kanssa joten Facebook, YouTube ja kaikki Googlen palvelut on Kiinassa pannassa. Päätän lähteä etsimään bussia takaisin lentokentälle.

Frankfurt 8.2.2016

Franfurtiin lentäessäni, ilmatilassa vilahteli jatkuvasti muita koneita, jotka jättivät peräänsä leijailevia tiivistymisvanoja. Yksi kone oli lentänyt hieman meitä alempaa lähes samaa linjaa. Se oli sylkenyt jälkeensä tumman harmaan pyrstön jonka persistointi muistutti minua jälleen ilmamatkailun päästöistä. Frankfurtin kentällä tutustuin hieman aiheeseen.

Arvion mukaan lentoliikenne tuottaa 2 % maailman hiilidioksidipäästöistä. (ICAO aviation report 2010) Lisäksi ilmailu tuottaa myös muita huonommin tiedossa olevia päästöjä. Tämä luku on kuitenkin kovassa kasvussa. Mikäli oman matkailun päästöistä tulee huono omatunto, voi asian korjata hyvittämällä tuottamansa hiilidioksidipäästöt rahoittamalla kompensoivaa ilmastotyötä. Esimerkiksi osoitteessa http://www.carbonfootprint.com/ voi laskea tuottamansa reittikohtaiset hiilidioksidipäästöt ja hyvittää nämä. Sivuston agendaan kuuluu kestävän kehityksen tukeminen, metsien jälleenkasvattaminen ja puhtaiden energiamuotojen kehitys ja rakentamistyö. Maksoin itse lentämiseni tuottamasta ympäristöhaitasta vähän päälle 20 euroa.

Seikkailu alkaa

Romut rivissä

Istun junassa ja kirjoitan. Edellinen yö venyi pitkäksi pakkaamisen ja kilojen viilaamisen kanssa. Lonkkarin jouduin lopulta jättämään varastoon ja karsin myös kiipeilykamoista kaksi jatkoa ja yhden camalotin. Toivottavasti henki ei jää näistä kiinni... (toim. huom. Valon soturin sanoin kaikki hyvät tarinat on hieman liioiteltuja)

Matka kohti Uuden Seelannin seikkailusaarta on nyt alkanut. Suomen loskakeli on erittäin passeli jättää taakseen ja suunnata kohti Maorien sotahuutoja. Rinkkaan taisi tulla 200 grammaa ylipainoa, reppu on hieman liian suuri ja sielläkin kilon verran liikaa. Toivon Chinese airlinesin tyttöjen tykkäävän uudesta hiustyylistäni.

Suunnitelmana on lentää Aucklandiin noin 40 tuntia Frankfurtin ja Pekingin kautta. Siellä tätini Eva tulee vastaan minua kentälle ja suuntaan matkasta palautumaan heidän luo Helensvilleen. Parin päivän chillailun jälkeen suuntaan takaisin Aucklandiin asumaan airbnb:n turvin. Olen ajatellut suorittaa varjoliitoalkeiskurssin joka kestää viikosta kahteen viikkoon. Suurin osa lentelystä tapahtuu ilmeisesti Kariotahi beach nimisellä rannalla. Kurssin jälkeen lennän eteläsaarelle Christchurchin kaupunkiin. Siellä olen sopinut tapaavani paikallisen kiipeilijän jonka kanssa suuntaamme sitten Queenstownin kautta Glenorchyn kylän lähellä sijaitsevalle Chinaman's bluff - kalliolle kiipeämään multi-pitch kalliokiipeilyreitttiä nimeltä "Ravages of Time". Toivottavasti reitti on eeppisen nimensä veroinen. (http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/new-zealand/queenstown/chinamans-bluff/route/12440107)

Trädikuumottelun jälkeen seuraani liittyy mahdollisesti toinen kokenut kaveri johon olen tutustunut Uuden Seelannin alppikiipeilyfoorumilla. Suunnittelimme yhdessä kiipeävämme alppityylisen reitin "Traverse of the Remarkables", joka kulkee Remarkables - vuoriston poikki Queenstownin vieressä. Tämän jälkeen seuraani liittyy Tuomas Tervonen (hyvä ystäväni, suomalainen komea arkkitehti) ja yhdessä suuntaamme sitten loppuajaksi perhokalastelemaan maan kauniille kalkkikivijoille.

Mikään matka ei ole kunnon seikkailu jos joku ei mene vituralleen ja niin kauan kuin ei ole hengen vaarassa on kyse seikkailusta. Tämän kaiken väliin toivottavasti mahtuu paljon jännitystä, iloa, uuden löytämistä, kohtaamisia sekä hieman myös yksinäisyyttä ja melankoliaa. Vain sen verran että kotiin palaaminen on sitten mukavaa.

Stay tuned!

Ystävällinen herrasmies nappasin kuvan matkalaisesta kirjoitushommissa.