Welcome surprises in Bulwer

During our previous Rainbow Gorge hike we were once again mesmerized by the idea of being able to paraglide off the mountain. What an epic treat that would be after working hard to get to the top! We googled paragliding in the Drakensberg when driving to the Sentinel. At first it was just an idea “Wouldn’t it be fun to do a paragliding course in the Drakensberg!” We quickly realized that it wasn’t only possible, but also very affordable. A two day intro course for only 170 euros and accommodation for 10 euros per night!

We contacted wild sky paragliding in Bulwer. Initially they answered that it would not be possible with our schedule, but we soon received a text saying they would be available on Monday. We would go conquer the Sentinel first and drive to Bulwer giving us four days before having to get back to Johannesburg.

After our adventures on the Sentinel, we spent a night at a random camping ground and got to Wild Sky paragliding lodge on Monday morning. We were instantly in love with the place. Run by Dutchman Hans Fokkens and his wife Ria, Wild sky seemed ideal for a grand finish of our trip. We had the whole wooden house all for ourselves. With a big yard and possibilities for fishing and maybe even a climbing crag up the hill we were awed by the gem we had ran into.

Wild Sky paragliding logde

Hans and Ria are very likeable people and after a hurried breakfast they were hasty about getting us under the gliders. Even though I had some previous experience of paragliding, Hans told us that it would be best to revise the basics with Joonas.

After skipping most of the chapters on an introductory dvd we packed the huge glider packs in Hans’ old 4x4 Mitsubishi and drove to the practice grounds. The lower slopes of Bulwer Mountain were ideal for a first day of glider handling. Running down the hill under the glider, we felt like chicken trying to fly. Hans was convinced of Joonas’ skills and we quickly climbed up the hill to get some air under us. It was all going well and catching a small thermal on my final practice flight, I soared a good hundred meters down the hill. I would have preferred landing on something else than thorn bushes, but I was still exhilarated by the feeling of flight while untangling my glider from the thorns. Hans said we would finish the day with some higher flights.

We drove back to the lodge and walked up to so called Rescue rocks. The take-off site was 120 meters higher than the landing zone. This was a drastic jump from our previous flights of some tens of meters! Even I hadn’t taken off from this height in New Zealand! Once again we had to trust our teacher’s judgement.

Laying down the gliders carefully and strapping in, we went through the five point pre-flight check. Glider facing the wind and lines clear, harness and helmet on and straps connected, wind direction ok, airspace clear, radio working. “Okay let’s go!” The wind had picked up and I needed to put my full weight against the glider to pull it up. Then it suddenly felt light again as I let go off the A-risers that help bring it up. The ground receded under me as a gust of wind took me to the sky. I am guided by the radio through some S-turns before landing some four minutes later next to the wind bag. Joonas follows after me and I watch him swinging through the turns like a pro. He lands like a feather and we celebrate our new skills. We fly once more and Joonas manages to catch some good thermals on the last flight extending air time to a full five minutes!

Run run! Push push! Lean lean!

The next two days are the only ones of rain during our trip. The gliders stay in the storeroom as we watch movies in the house. There’s something else though, flying in the air. The rain has apparently caused some kind of a hatching of flying thermites. The air is full of them! A good time to make use of our fishing gear. We had tried the larger of the dams the previous day with no luck. We head to the small pond just a few hundred meters from the house. Hans has told us there might even be some trout in it, but our enthusiasm is shattered as we find the pond shallow looking and full of weeds. Just as I’m suggesting to return to the larger dam, something breaks the still water surface.

It had to be a fish surfacing in the middle. Might as well give it a few casts. Joonas starts casting with his spinner as I get my fly rod ready. It must have been the second cast when Joonas shouts in surprise: “Hei äijä, mulla on kala!” He’s caught onto something! I recognize the fish from seeing it in a computer fishing game. It’s a bluegill! Hans told us there might be those around.

Joonas manages to catch another one before I get my gear ready. I have to change my fly, but once I got the yellow and orange streamer on my line, the fish start coming. We catch a fish on almost every cast and bring about a dozen of them to the shore. Keeping the five biggest, we decide to have a fish barbeque in the evening! Such a surprize from the little pond. Talking to Hans later, he is also amazed by our catch.

Catch of the day

The weather clears a little for Wednesday and we manage to get two more practice flights from another flying site close to Bulwer. Hans says that Thursday will be very good weather and we are putting all our hopes in that. We will have to leave to Johannesburg the same day.

Morning breaks crisp and clouds are still low. The temperature is nine degrees Celsius and drops to a frigid six as we drive up to the plateau of Bulwer Mountain, 300 meters above the landing zone. The Drakensberg even gets snow later in the season! Hans tells us that we might be able to do some ridge soaring. This is possible when the wind comes at a right angle against the mountain and is forced straight up by the cliffs.

Excited by things to come, we arrive at the flying site and see the wind bag sagging sadly in the still air. No wind. Hans is optimistic though and we set up our gliders. A small breeze of wind allows us to take off, but it is not enough to gain height and we are forced to fly down to the landing field. Walking back up takes 30 minutes and isn’t the most comfortable with a glider and harness on your back.

Hans suggests waiting for a half hour for the wind but I’m anxious. Taking another trip down and another hike up, I watch as Joonas follows suite. As I’m midway up the slope again, I see Hans flying his orange and black glider high above me. The wind has picked up and seems to be enough for some lift now. I hurry my pace and arrive at the top just as Hans lands next to me. My next flight is only half successful. Getting just enough lift to land on a saddle just 50 meters down from the take off site.

In our short flights of some minutes we have not yet found the true spirit of paragliding. Taking off and flying straight to the landing zone isn’t really the point. But the weather gods seem to be on our side as the wind starts blowing. Hans is smiling broadly as I hike back to the plateau. “The wind is perfect now! You need to go!”

Me soaring at Bulwer mountain. What an epic feeling!

I make a reverse launch and run down over the 10 meter drop of the cliffs. I feel the wind catch my glider. As if in a rollercoaster, I am accelerated upward by the rising air. Look, lean and break, I steer my glider to the left to maintain my distance from the ridge. The lift takes me higher and higher and I can’t help but laugh out loud. This is awesome! I giggle through the turns like a little girl, soaring back and forth along the ridge. After some minutes of flying, Hans guides me back down to the plateau for a top landing. No need to walk up anymore!

Joonas floating over the fields of Bulwer

Joonas goes for his flight but Hans quickly agrees that there is enough space for both of us. I haven’t had so much fun in a long time, as we fly in the sky racing each other along the ridge. The feeling of true flight is baffling and the views are awesome! A couple of times I get a little scared being so high in the air. Dangling under a piece of fabric, it’s a little absurd when you start thinking about it. We do some cool flybys and imaginary high fives yelling to each other in the air. “Heh! Mitä äijä!!!” We do a total of six ridge soaring flights with a good 45 minutes of airtime before we have to admit our need to leave. Driving in the dark isn’t fun but totally worth a couple of extra flights at Bulwer Mountain!

We land down in the valley and log our flights in our logbooks. Our gear is already packed and ready to go, so we have a quick lunch and thank Hans for everything, swearing to come back. This is definitely something we both want to continue doing!