We drove all the way to the Drakensberg the same day we left
Eagle Mountain. A while ago Miki had still been in the belief that it’s a
single mountain. “Which Drakensberg are we climbing guys??” – He had messaged
us when he was still in Oman.
The Drakensberg is a huge area and mountain range. We were
quite surprised of the views as we drove over a small hill and the mountains
popped into view. We were able to see almost the whole Drakensberg range from
the road. From looking at pictures I could even name some of the peaks. Also
our objective, Sentinel peak, was looming in the distance
.
We stopped for grocery shopping in Winterton and had some
carrot cake in a café trying to sort out our plans. We definitely wanted to
climb the Sentinel. It had been our only certain goal of the trip. We were also
feeling very tired of being on the move all the time and wanted some rest.
We had heard about Rainbow Gorge from Darren in Tofo and
decided to make way to a camp site in Didima for the night. From there we could
do an easy day hike into the Gorge. As we drove in between the mountains, the dry
colours of brown and yellow sand faded as green took over. We crossed many streams
at which the locals were bathing and washing their cars.
Didima camp had a big main building with a restaurant and souvenir
shop. Accommodation was available in thatched roof chalets, but we chose the
tents. We decided to take a break and chill at the pool area as the sun set
behind the Drakensberg mountains. Some dinner in the restaurant (lemon butter
marinated trout with oven baked potatoes for seven euros) before setting up
camp was all we needed to call it a day.
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The sun setting behind Cathedral peak |
After breakfast we felt energised again and were anxious to
make plans for the day. Hiking maps were available at the souvenir shop and the
lady there said she had done all the hikes in the area. Apparently the only way
to get back from Rainbow Gorge was to back track the same way. “Don’t come back
before you’ve climbed a chain ladder and seen a large rock lodged between the
canyon walls” – she told us.
Morning broke warm and sunny. We crossed grassy plains and
magnificent rock faces as we walked into the Gorge. Apparently the rock was of poor
quality considering climbing activities but I still could not stop imagining
doing first ascents on the pristine lime stone cliffs. After enjoying lunch at
a beautiful waterfall and taking some awesome #nakedinnature – photos, we
walked deeper into the Gorge. Baboons yelled after us and spider webs were
suspended above the path. We were immersed in constant sounds of insects and the
flowing water as we made our way through the vegetation.
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Lunchbreak |
We found the chain ladder, but the path ended long before we
got to the rock between the cliffs. It would have been a boring trip to walk
back so we decided to see how deep into the Gorge it was possible to delve. The
map said the river would cross another path further upstream and we could
follow that back to camp. We crossed pools chest deep and crawled through small
cracks between rocks in our mission to find a route.
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Joonas trying to find the way forward |
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Miki and Style |
The canyon got narrower and narrower and the cliffs higher
and higher on either side. Most of the time we were forced to pack our gear in
backpacks and wade naked in the chilly mountain water to get further into the
mysterious canyon. We found another chain ladder and another big rock between
the cliffs as we went on.
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Special place to boulder if it was dry :D |
A roaring sound of a waterfall could be heard around
the corner as we continued. We had to fear the worst. The way was blocked. Water
rushed down the sides of a huge slippery rock face we couldn’t climb over,
crawl under or pass by. We had to turn around and find a way to climb out of
the canyon.
At first it seemed impossible as the rock was slimy from
algae and the ground too steep to climb. Climbing gear wouldn’t have changed a
thing. I found a steep slope to a rocky ledge that could possibly be traversed
to climb out. Holding tight on the reins of my nerves I scrambled up and
crossed the sloping traverse about 10 meters above the river. “There might be a
way out here” – I yelled to Miki and Joonas.
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Miki on the slope traverse |
They followed as I had to grab a
tree to wiggle up after the traverse. Between the bushes I could see some light
and hope of getting up tickled my stomach. We scrambled through fighting the thorns and spider webs. After a final push the sun lay her gentle gaze on our faces as we got above the trees. We made our
way onto a gentler grassy slope and the view opened showing a way up to the
ridge.
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Joonas on the final push from the canyon |
We still had to scramble up some hundreds of meters, climb a
small rock face and walk for a half hour, but in the end we found the contour
path that would take us back to camp. We were excited to have found an
alternate route. We also had the opportunity to walk via Thyme hill from which
we could see the whole valley and awesome scenery of the Drakensberg area.
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Hiking towards Thyme hill |
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Folke West and a Taleban soldier |
We
ran down from the hill as the sun set behind the mountains. Our hike had taken
a full 8 hours and hunger growled in our stomachs.
During dinner Miki revealed to us that he had been feeling
ill for a couple of days already. We all feared the worst as he might have
caught malaria from Tofo. He said he would not want to take risks climbing the
Sentinel and it would be best to head to Johannesburg for his flight back to
Oman. It was Tuesday evening and his flight was on Friday. Morning would tell
us more but Sentinel peak would probably have to wait.
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Los Grandes Cojones |
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